All Saints Day | Todos Santos Guatemala

In the picturesque mountain village of Todos Santos, golden maize dries in the warm sunlight while girls with ribbons braided in their hair stroll hand in hand and men proudly wear matching attire crafted in local street side shops. This tight-knit community, deeply rooted in its heritage, undergoes a remarkable transformation every year from October 31 to November 2 when it becomes the epicenter of Guatemala’s largest festival.

During this time, what is typically a peaceful village bursts into a vibrant spectacle as throngs of visitors flock to witness the festivities. The air is filled with excitement as the village comes alive with colorful carnivals, traditional mask dancing, melodious marimba music, and the infamous drunken horse races that captivate spectators.

Despite an alcohol ban imposed in May 2008, local men indulge heavily during the festival to gear up for the exhilarating races on November 1. Onlookers line makeshift fences to catch glimpses of riders careening wildly along a sandy track throughout the day. Amidst cheers and gasps, riders occasionally tumble from their horses but are promptly rescued by vigilant spectators before any harm befalls them. As dusk approaches, the leading rider—often dubbed as the most intoxicated—clutches a flailing chicken while racing ahead; victory goes to the last man standing atop his steed.

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